A-TEEM for Cosmetics
Learn what A-TEEM Spectroscopy can do for skin characterization
We cover A-TEEM applications for cosmetics, including application notes, A-TEEM products, and how A-TEEM can be applied in the field of cosmetics, including skin characterization, sunscreen studies and how it can easily identify skin endogenous markers and characterize the interaction with cosmetic products.
Figure 1. EEM contour plot of in-vivo forearm skin. Acquired with Aqualog.
In the cosmetics industry, the Aqualog A-TEEM spectrometer is used to investigate skin-state and sunscreen photoactivity. For skin characterization and sunscreen studies, a HORIBA Aqualog A-TEEM spectrometer is fitted with a remote fiber optic probe to acquire a fluorescence Excitation Emission Matrix (EEM) from the surface of the skin. Since this is a front face measurement from a solid surface, there is no absorbance measurement.
The endogenous fluorescence of skin is due to the presence of specific fluorophores (i.e. Porphyrins, Advanced Glycation End products (AGEs), Flavin Adenine Dinucleotide (FAD), Collagen, Elastin, Tryptophan, Tyrosine, NADH Pheomelanin, Eumelanin, components of Lipofuscin and Keratin, Hemoglobin (chromophore)). A Fluorescence EEM is shown to easily identify skin endogenous markers and characterize the interaction with cosmetic products.
Sunscreens protect the skin from the damaging effects of both UVA and UVB rays of natural light. They are characterized by the Sun Protection Factor (SPF). The HORIBA Aqualog can study photoactivity effects by acquiring an EEM before and after the application of a sunscreen.
The main photo-process occurring in sunscreen is absorption: Sunscreens absorb into the outer skin layer (stratum corneum) and block the UV radiation from entering the inner skin layers by acting as optical filters, so the in-vivo fluorescence attenuation reflects the realized protective effects of the applied compounds. Although most of the high-energy UV photons are transformed, dispersed or absorbed by sunscreens, a certain amount of UV light will enter the epidermis.
Figure 2. Normalized EEM contour plot of in-vivo forearm skin after SPF20 a) and SPF50 b) sunscreen application, showing increasing filtering effects of transmission of excitation light relative to the unprotected skin EEM. Example acquired with Aqualog.
To learn more about how A-TEEM molecular fingerprinting can help you with your application, email us at a-teem.us(at)horiba.com.
A Simple, Fast, “Column Free” Molecular Fingerprinting Technology
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